Many months ago, Ashby and I set off on our big adventure. It didn’t actually start in San Francisco, but in New Zealand. As part of our wonderful extended honeymoon we spent a month travelling around our own country before we set off to check out some of the big, wide world.
We were lucky enough to be able to borrow ‘Sam’ for the trip – Ashby’s Dad’s trusted van – and we took him on a proper adventure. Four wheel driving through the South Island and camping in the Coromandel region, as well as more sedate time spent visiting with our gorgeous families and friends, all meant this was a trip to remember.
One of my highlights was getting to see a bit of NZ that I had never seen before – the Coromandel Peninsula. We had a few days in the region before we went to Auckland to catch our flight, and it was such a special treat for me.
In a traditionally dicey time for weather, we got super lucky with loads of sunshine as we explored the beaches that make the area famous. With no real plan, we based most of our movements around checking out DOC camping grounds. For anyone considering camping in NZ, DOC is certainly the place to start. The facilities range from incredibly basic, to fully serviced, but on the whole I have always been super impressed. The campgrounds are often in little spots of paradise and if you avoid the peak season you get miles of beauty all to yourselves.
Driving along the coast was a chance to see how breathtaking NZ can be, it is another stunning view around each corner. We took the chance to explore where we could, and spent hours soaking up the beauty of the beaches in particular.
I think the most breathtaking spot was a beach with a most wonderful name – New Chums Beach. It is a bit of a hike through the bush and we were glad we got there early as it did start to fill up a little after a while, but it is just beautiful. While Ashby found a comfortable spot to stretch out for a nap, I walked on an isolated sandy beach and had one of those moments of true peace. Secluded and beautiful, it really was something quite special.
It is about a thirty minute walk to the beach itself, with limitations around high tide. A less formed track than Cathedral Cove means it is not as popular – and hopefully it will stay that way!
On a future trip to the region it would be great to find a place to base ourselves for a longer stay. It is small enough that you could do quite a bit in a day trip, and it is such fun to be able to really relax into a place as well. With only a few days before we had to be in Auckland for our flight, we were limited in just how much we could see. There are loads of walks to explore, and many an hour could be spent under a Pohutakawa tree doing some proper summer time reading!
Ah, looking at these photographs has left me a little homesick! New Zealand really is a special part of the world.
After our romp through the desert region of the United States’ southwest, it was a nice twist to move to the chillier shadow of the Colorado mountains. The capital city of Denver sits just east of the Rocky Mountains and is known as mile-high city, due to its altitude. We again opted to book a room through Air BnB, retiring our tent for the foreseeable future. With our base sorted, we gave ourselves a few days to explore the city.
Denver, and Colorado more broadly, is simply a fabulous place. We found ourselves walking for hours, I discovered the deliciousness that is a well executed ice cream sandwich (cookies and ice cream? simply heavenly), and the crisp air had a refreshing feel to it. Whenever I end up in a state’s capital city, I try to get the chance to explore the capitol building. In Denver, they run regular free tours, where you get a chance to learn a little more about the history, and to head right to the top of the building itself. The dome tours let you step outdoors and check out the view of the city. Clouds obstructed the beauty of the mountain range on the day we visited, but it was still a cool exercise.
State and the Nation
Visiting these buildings is a lot of fun, in particular because you get a little more insight into the ongoing discussion regarding the role of state and nation in the United States story. It does not take long before you start to appreciate just how different the individual states are from one another, and the contrast between the external concept of what signifies an American and the internal reality. In New Zealand, with a tiny population and relatively small geographic footprint, we still hold some disparate views of what makes a ‘kiwi’ based on where in the country we come from. In the US, this is amplified. Individual states operate in a way where they are constantly seeking to balance the rights of the state with that of the collective idea of nation. It is possible to both love the whole and to be fiercely protective of the right of the state to set its own laws and shape its own way of life. Finding how to balance this troubled America’s founding fathers, and continues to be a fundamental debate in contemporary America. Delving into the stories of the history of the state is an engaging way to reflect on the complexity of the American story.
In Colorado, the outdoors plays a central part in the reflection of self. With the jagged points of the Rockies cutting through the centre of the state, it is apparent why this would be. Historically, a place noted for its restorative abilities, it was an area associated with healing. It also played host to gold rush and war, with conflict between a multitude of peoples shaping the historic makeup of the state. Today, in the capitol building there is a prominent tribute to this history of notable women, and a reflection on the leaders who have played a role in both the building of nation and state.
In our wanderings of the city, we were at one point caught out by a snow flurry – though the novelty was enough for us to laugh through it before seeking shelter in the library (not exactly a hardship to hide in a library for a short while!).
A key destination in Colorado for Ashby was Pike’s Peak. The site of an annual rally car race, it is a location that means little to me but can be appreciated by looking at this video from a record breaking drive in the 1980s.
While Ashby has pretty much memorised a lot of the corners after driving this track in a virtual format, snow and an under-powered rental car limited the ability to do anything more than a quiet drive to the end of the road. Unfortunately snow hampered any chance of getting to the top – so we might just need to save that for a return trip. We went as far as we could, but any further and the wind was blowing snow drifts across the road faster than it could be cleared.
We had a night in Colorado Springs, before heading east again. Leaving behind forecasts of more cold weather we took to the plains of Kansas, right in the midst of the season of thunderstorms and tornadoes.
The first thing to note is that unless you are planning some epic hiking, Rocky Mountain National Park is not a recommended visit till the summer time. You see, it snows there – a lot. Even visiting in April we were caught out by the snow. I thought maybe some snow would still be visible on mountain peaks, instead we were driving through flurries and awestruck by frozen lakes. Really large frozen lakes.
Our intention was to drive through the National Park, a detour on our route between Grand Junction (where we stayed the night) and Denver where we had booked accomodation for a few nights. Unfortunately, we realised once we got there that this road does not open till the end of May and it did not take long for us to see why with the road closed sign ahead of a deep snow drift. However, the benefit was that we did not have to share the park with many people! The small bit we saw was beautiful and it was refreshing to layer up with the winter jacket. It does not take much to have me playing in snow, and a few snow dances took place under the flurries.
There was not a lot we could do, but we explored where we could and popped into the visitor’s centre. Intriguingly (for Ashby at least), Colorado is home to 53 fourteeners – that is mountain peaks with an elevation of at least 14,000 feet (4267 metres). There are a multitude of resources aimed at people attempting to climb all of these peaks, and I will not be surprised if Ashby takes the opportunity to climb at least some of these in the future. I will take charge of having the hot dinner ready for when he gets back to the bottom!
Our trip to the National Park may have been a little underwhelming, but this was one of the more spectacular drive days of our trip. Perhaps influenced by the welcome sight of snow after all of the desert, it also allowed Ashby to drive on a road he will remember for years to come. The I-70 travels east to west and across the Rocky Mountains. It is regarded as an engineering marvel (the Americans have given the world a few of those) and the Wikipedia article about it is rather informative. Thankfully, someone else has also put together a bit of a video which is worth a watch (the music is painful, but we can not have everything). We drove this route heading east (while most of the video is about going west), but you can still get an understanding of the road and driving conditions.
We drove past a multitude of ski fields, with lifts still working and people on the slopes. After our detour north to the national park, we ended up on the I-40 and crossing Berthoud Pass and the continental divide. Here, playing in the snow got a whole lot more fun as it was super deep.
This site is notorious, particularly with the interstate being in the path of several known avalanche routes. It is also a well utilised area for outdoor activities, and there is a warming hut at the peak (not for overnight use). An activity community maintains the area, and the Friends of Berthoud Pass work hard to maintain this (more information can be found here, and it made me think particularly of my Aunty Carol and Uncle Bob).
We made it through the region and headed into Denver late Sunday afternoon. After checking in at our Air BnB for the night, we grabbed dinner and got ready for a return to city life in the state capital of Colorado.
The sheer scale of Arches National Park leaves you awestruck. Even after a bombardment of beauty over the course of a week bouncing between national parks, you still find yourself staring in wonder at the precariousness of nature. With the bright blue sky and snowcapped mountains as the backdrop, it truly is a wonder to behold.
As we started to feel overwhelmed by the endless desert, Arches proved to be a capstone to the week. We arrived in the afternoon, setting off with our map to explore by car. At this particular park it is difficult to find a campsite at the best of times, so we had no chance turning up mid afternoon. We did have time to explore the park, and drove the length of the road. Ideally, it would have been nice to do a hike – perhaps next time.
Like all of the National Parks we visited, Arches makes it easy to appreciate the beauty of America. Exploration and interaction are encouraged, while there is an emphasis on the importance of respecting the natural environment. This is done by offering public talks, providing easy to access information, and the continued presence of park workers who will chat with visitors. The National Park system offers a visitors the opportunity to get a taste of what is available, and encourages those who want to do more to plan a more elaborate adventure.
All up, we were in Arches for only a few hours on a Saturday afternoon. It was a fantastic chance to round out our journey in the American Southwest… However, it was time for a new adventure. After leaving the park we had an interesting situation to ponder: what to do tomorrow? Up till this point, we had a pretty clear plan of what we wanted to see. Canyonlands National Park was just down the road and is one Ashby particularly wants to explore at some stage. Alternatively we could hightail it out of there. Out came the map book (a particularly cool wedding gift from dear friends of ours) and we pondered where to next. Result: we’re off to Colorado. That evening we drove across the border and climbed into Colorado Springs. The tent stayed in the car and we booked into a cheap hotel room. Our next stop would round out National Park Week with a dose of snow – Rocky Mountain National Park!
When is a canyon not a canyon? When it is actually a collection of giant amphitheatres. Bryce Canyon may have a deceptive name, but there is nothing misleading about its beauty.
Only a couple of hours away from Zion National Park, Bryce was a quieter place to stop and explore for a night. We again got lucky and snagged one of the last available campsites, with the two campgrounds filling up for the final weekend of National Park Week. Once we had sorted out the tent and grabbed some food to cook that night, it was off to explore via the scenic drive. I am particularly impressed by the emphasis the National Park Service places on accessibility. Whilst there are loads of options for people who want to explore further, for anyone who is unable (or simply less inclined) to set out on a hike easy access has been arranged. Roads are maintained and link together a lot of beautiful sites. As well as this, individuals with permanent disabilities are eligible for an Access Pass, which allows for free entry to the parks, whilst senior citizens can obtain a lifetime pass for just $10. It is just another thing that impresses me about the National Park Service.
Bryce is known for its intriguing hoodoos, the rock formations that emerge out of the ground. According to the Bryce Canyon website, it is not flowing water that has carved out the landscape – instead it is a result of ‘frost-wedging’. For more than half of the year, the temperature gets above and below freezing on a daily basis. This causes the water to seep into fractures in the rock during the day, then freeze and expand at night to chip away at the rock. The result is the landscape we see today (which is therefore in a continuous state of change).
We opted to enjoy the formations from the lookout points this time, as we arrived late and would be leaving early the next day. From our vantage points, snow was still visible in the amphitheatre, and the towering hoodoos looked like something from a far fetched fairytale.
It is the kind of place where you can imagine spending a day getting lost in the world of hoodoos. Alas, we stayed at the top and looked down upon the magical land of Bryce Canyon, before heading back to our campsite for dinner. The regular appearances of fire grills have allowed Ashby’s inner pyromaniac come to the fore, and meant my contributions to dinner have been the simple role of observer.
Despite not venturing into the ampitheatre, we did decide to wake up early the next morning and check out the hoodoos as the sun rose. I can report that the below freezing temperatures certainly happened when we were there, and it was jolly cold getting up. And, as luck would have it, we also choose the morning where the cloud cover interfered with the sunrise. I admit, I chickened out and only lasted about ten minutes at the viewpoint before my extremities got too cold, leaving Ashby to continue his photo taking. Despite the cloud, he still got some lovely photographs.
With feeling returning to our fingers, we returned to the tent to pack up, grab a cooked breakfast from a nearby restaurant, and then got back on the road again. Next stop: the gods’ playground, Arches National Park.
There is a beautiful legend regarding the naming of Angel’s Landing in Zion National Park. An explorer of the name of Frederick Fisher looked skyward in 1916 and exclaimed that only an angel could land upon it. Ten years later, two park service employees, Thomas Chalmers Vint and Walter Ruesch, set about proving him wrong. The impressive trail was eventually listed on National Register of Historic Places in 1987 and is now one of the greatest day hikes anywhere.
Ashby and I set out with the intention to use National Park week as something of a sampler. We wanted to see what was on offer, and perhaps mark out places to return. For me, on my second visit to this remarkable spot, returning to Zion was something particularly special. I wanted to share this place with my husband, introduce him to the most beautiful place I have ever been.
Horseshoe Bend and the majesty of the Colorado River
In a move perhaps unsurprising to those who know me, I rather grossly underestimated our drive time from the Grand Canyon to Zion. In my flurry of planning, I had confused my distances, and the result was an unexpectedly long drive day. Luckily, we had a host of podcasts to listen to, and a special stop along the way – Horseshoe Bend in Arizona.
This rather lovely sight is only a short walk from the interstate. The almost hidden nature of it adds to its beauty, as it is so close yet so easy to miss from the road. It is technically a meander of the Colorado River, and we spied kayakers in the water below. A stunning example of the beauty within the rocks.
Driving on from here, we made it to Zion in the early evening and arrived to the dreaded campground full sign. This park in particular is rather notorious for difficulty in securing a campsite, and alas we were too late. However, another campground was available just on the edge of the park and we snagged a spot there. It was a little more expensive, but came with such luxuries as showers, and wifi. The sites were rather cramped, however, and missing that special touch that the National Park Service offers.
Walking with the Angels
We slept well and arose early to tackle Angel’s Landing. This is one of the hikes available at Zion, and a particularly notorious one at that. A quick google for information and one of the first things that come up are figures of just how many people have fallen when doing the walk. However, it is an accessible walk, as long as you are smart, and take your time. Getting to the trail is straightforward, as there are shuttles to get you around the park. The first part of the climb is just a tough slog uphill, including the Walter’s Wiggles – a lovely stretch of switchbacks to get you puffing.
A furry friend along the trail
The start of the track
Once you get to Scout’s Landing, then the fun really begins. This is the final spot for a lot of people and really does allow you to appreciate the beauty. The next step does not work if you have any fear of heights, because it is a long way up and some sheer drops down. Thankfully, someone else has put together a wee video just so those at home can appreciate it (Mum, I know you will love this one).
It is a bit of a highway getting up and down, but at the end you will come to one of the most magical places in the world.
Driving out, we stopped often to take in the view and snap some more photographs. Ashby had scoffed a little when I said Zion was more breathtaking than the Grand Canyon… Both places are different, but Zion wins in my books. I think it is because you cannot help but be confronted with the stunning landscape.
One day, I intend to spend a week camping in Zion National Park. There are a hosts of other hikes I want to go on, and hours to spend just soaking in the beauty. It really is one of my most favourite places.
It is impossible to grasp the scale of the Grand Canyon as you stand at one of the vantage points looking out. At about 433km long, and on average 18km wide, it is visible from space. But the Canyon itself is only one part of the National Park that surrounds it. The vast majority of the 4930 km² park is home to an array of wildlife. This includes the mountain lion.
One of the impressive aspects of America’s National Park Service is the emphasis placed on education. There are a range of programmes available for children, offering them a chance to learn about the environment that surrounds them. For the adults, there are talks on a variety of topics. When we visited the Grand Canyon, we went along to listen to an excellent talk: ‘God of Hunters: The Mountain Lion’ which was presented by one of the rangers at the park. The expectation was to learn more about the animal, yet this went well beyond that. From understanding the interaction of humans and nature, through to appreciating the beauty that is the mountain lion, I walked away feeling both informed and excited to learn more about the merging of nature and civilisation.
First, some quick facts. The mountain lion is known by a multitude of names. You have heard of pumas, cougars and panthers as well? They are all the same animal: Puma concolor. The San Diego zoo website has a good summary about the mountain lion which is well worth a read. Perhaps most striking is its jumping stats. They can jump 5.5m from the ground into a tree, and they can jump 6.1m up or down a hillside. Yep, 6.1m – the height of many two story buildings.
The mountain lion is a striking predator, but the risk to humans is actually pretty minimal. For the most part, they simply stay away from humans where possible. Where the natural habitat has been impacted, there can be more interaction with people and their livestock. Unfortunately, there are fatal attacks on humans – normally children or lone adults – but the numbers are minimal. In a study of mountain lions in the Grand Canyon, they found that there was little evidence of the mountain lions venturing into the areas where humans were most prevalent. Instead, the cats stayed in the shadows and hunted elsewhere in the expansive park. Learning how to share the space is important; whilst there was a drive to eradicate the mountain lion, it is now understood that they play a crucial role in the North American ecosystem.
Two biologists from Oregon State University, William Ripple and Robert Beschta, study the impact of predators on the ecosystem. One of the intriguing aspects of their research for me is the demonstration of how removing predators can have unforeseen consequences lower down the food chain. In a study of Zion and Yosemite national parks, they found that the scarcity of predators (in this case the mountain lion) led to an increase in deer population. The consequence: a substantial decrease in biodiversity. This can be seen in the case of Zion Canyon, where the biologists report that:
Increases in human visitors in Zion Canyon apparently reduced cougar (Puma concolor) densities, which subsequently led to higher mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus) densities, higher browsing intensities and reduced recruitment of riparian cottonwood trees (Populus fremon- tii), increased bank erosion, and reductions in both terrestrial and aquatic species abundance.
That is, ecological change comes not only from changes at the bottom (where humans impact natural food sources etc), but can also be a result of altering the top of the food chain. Predators, such as the mountain lion in America, play an important role in maintaining ecological balance. Through continuing to understand them, we can learn how to live side by side with them.
So, the question looms over how to work with the mountain lion so that they can continue their role in ecosystem, whilst also reducing the fatal encounters with humans. One of the intriguing ideas presented at the ranger talk we attended was the concept of wildlife corridors. A big challenge for wild animals is the human alteration of the environment. When humans encroach into what has been a hunting ground for centuries, the consequences can be dire for the animals who called that home, and ultimately humans as well. Finding a middle ground allows for conserved space for the likes of the mountain lion to call home. There are large swaths of land that has been deemed public space in the United States and, as a result, conservation efforts have been able to reestablish populations of animals who were once struggling to maintain numbers. The mountain lion is not considered to be a threatened species, a result of a change of human ideas around the cat – from pest to an important part of the ecological system. (Also of note, mountain lions are a self regulating species – they are a cannibalistic animal, with older males in particular committing acts of infanticide. Their preference for isolation and large spaces means that they will control the population spread effectively.) However, there is still work to be done in ensuring their continued place within the ever-changing landscape.
The next stage is supporting the migratory patterns of animals throughout the American continent. Borrowing from ideas successfully implemented in Europe and Canada, there is a move towards implementing wildlife corridors. These allow for the safe passage of animals across major highways – which benefits both animals and humans through a reduction in collisions.
On our drive east, we were lucky enough to see a newly established wildlife crossing in action in Colorado. A long length of fence has been installed along both sides of the roadside, helping to corral animals into tunnels and over bridges – avoiding cars along a notorious stretch of road. It’s working too, within days the animals were safely crossing over or under the road.
One of the big disadvantages of this approach is the cost. Someone needs to be able to pay for these, and in a country with an awful lot of roads it is going to be astronomical to attempt to instigate wholesale change overnight. However, with ongoing discussion about the importance of improving the American infrastructure, there is surely space to consider the environmental impact alongside upgrades. Allowing space for American wildlife alongside the development of the American infrastructure will ultimately benefit everyone.
If you are interested, you can donate to the program (I’m not sure how this works outside of the US) to support these beautiful animals in the Grand Canyon. Details here.